The World's Largest Cannolo

By Miamichelle N. Abad

What is 12 feet long, over 300 pounds and spiked with chocolate chips? Why the world’s “largest” cannolo (singular of cannoli) unveiled September 20th at the 88th Feast of San Gennaro. Tourists and locals crowded the streets of Little Italy for the 11-day celebration of the patron saint of Naples, taking in the intoxicating smell of sausages, playing carnival games, and, of course, sampling the ubiquitous cannoli.

Although known for its street-party atmosphere, the event has deeply religious roots. It harkens back to 300 AD when Christians were being persecuted. San Gennaro was a bishop at the time and was later executed in 305 AD for his faith. One visiting priest, Andrew Garcia, explained the saint’s act of martyrdom. “There wasn’t supposed to be public worship. He didn’t comply and they beheaded him.”

Despite its “party” reputation, the feast draws a regular crowd of Italians from all over. “A lot of Italian Americans have history here and people visit from other cities,” said Craig Bellusi, a church vendor. “It’s enormous. You know people come here, they sit on a bus for three to four hours from other states. They remember because they grew up with this.” Mother and daughter Kim and Janet Stevens said they came to meet up with friends and to “people watch.”

New Yorkers aren’t the only ones who enjoy the feast. Celebrities have visited the narrow streets of the Italian neighborhood since its opening, according to Vee Chang, a volunteer who sells church memorabilia. Chang has been assisting with the feast for 20 years. She said she loves the zeppole and calamari, but most of all she enjoys “meeting all kinds of people.” Chang says she saw Tony Danza selling sausages and witnessed governor Bill De Blasio’s first procession with the church.

On September 20th, a 12-foot cannolo, pride and joy of the Ferrara bakery, took center stage. Nestled in the corner of Mulberry Street was the Figli Di San Gennaro stage where opera singer Cristina Fontanelli brought down the house with her powerful opera and Johnny Mandolin serenaded the crowd in the style of Frank Sinatra.

At precisely 3 p.m. a massive crowd flooded the stage area to witness the debut of the “world’s biggest cannol0.” Standing by was the masterchef Ernest Lepore, and his sidekick, Nancy Rodriguez. When taking on the challenge of a life-size cannolo there were obstacles, said Lepore. “I finished making this cannoli at 9:30 this morning,” he said. “The other two broke. I figured out what the problem was, it was the buoyancy. It was uneven.” Everyone enjoyed their free piece of the huge cannolo.

As director of operations at Ferrara bakery, Rodriguez said she kept the peace in the kitchen when the cannolo was being made. She said she has noticed some changes in the event over the years such as the new pickle and mozzarepas stands. “People are paying more rent, vendors are more diverse, and if you have a grandma you wouldn’t want her to live here,” she said, describing complaints she hears during the 11 days of the feast. Like most, Rodriguez is a fan of Italian cuisine, “I’m a foodie, it’s my favorite part!”