By Amen Dilawar
Jackson Heights, a neighborhood known for its multicultural exuberance and immigrant population, evokes comfort and nostalgia for South Asians. Although initially developed in the early 20th century as a garden city for middle- and upper-class white residents, Jackson Heights developed into the diverse, multicultural neighborhood it is today during the 1960s and 70s after modifications in immigration laws attracted large communities of South Asian, Latin American, and East Asian immigrants.
It is home to large numbers of South Americans (particularly from Colombia, Ecuador and Argentina) and South Asians (Bangladeshis, Pakistanis, Tibetans, Nepalese, and Indians). Due to its large and vibrant Tibetan community, it has been called “the second (if unofficial) capital of the exile Tibetan world, after Dharamsala, India.” There is a Little India on 74th Street and a Little Pakistan and Little Bangladesh on 73rd Street.
Shivani Parikh, Esq. is a racial justice and civil rights advocate and founder of the South Asian Legal Defense Fund (SA LDF), who proudly calls Jackson Heights her home. She grew up in Rockland County, New York, and knew she wanted to be an attorney from a young age. By the time she graduated from Fordham Law School, she was deeply inspired by the community organizing work of South Asian Americans. “Jackson Heights, still the city’s Little India, was the natural choice for where I wanted to live once I’d accepted my job offer at Queens Legal Services,” says Parikh. “It is the only place where I feel my shoulders relax when I get off the train, with the blend of garam masala, incense, and sandalwood in Diversity Plaza greeting me!”
The presence of a grocery store serves as a community hub for not only smoking purposes (as it is a practice followed by many) but also lottery tickets and international remittance services. The “Money Transfer” service reflects the role of financial services for Jackson Heights’ immigrant communities, who often support families abroad. This can include individuals on a student visa or any other solo immigrant who contributes financially to their family.
A few lucky residents have arrived in the U.S. due to a different sort of lottery, one where one wins a visa. The Diversity Visa (DV) program of the U.S. Department of State’s Bureau of Consular Affairs lists some data on who has benefited. Millions apply for the Diversity Visas each year. In 2021, there were more than 11.8 million. Nepal was the country with the most Diversity Visa winners in 2022, 26%. “In addition, 65% of all Algerians and 64% of all Turkmenistanis who received a green card in 2022 did so through the lottery.”
Traditional Indian attire known as lehengas or ghagra cholis are often worn at weddings and other cultural events. This three-piece ensemble, which consists of a skirt, fitted blouse, and flowing dupatta, is for special events like shaadi, walima, mehndi, dholki, and other festivals. Originating in the royal courts of ancient India, the lehenga features elaborate stitching, patterns, and decorations.
Seeing these lehengas displayed brings back memories of Karachi’s lively bazaars like Bohri Bazar and also Tariq Road, where, during the peak wedding season in the winter, families search for the perfect attire. These traditional dresses are made of sequins, beadwork, or zari (metallic thread), and lots of other embroidery. The fabric is silk, satin, or velvet, and the embellishments include crystals, pearls, or mirror work. In Pakistan, it is common to have your own tailor who does various alterations.
These bridal lehengas are typical of the extravagance expected of bridal apparel, with a bright red lehenga with elaborate gold embroidery combined with beige and pink ensembles. Red is an increasingly common color option for weddings and represents love, devotion, and fulfillment. A pink lehenga cholis is a style reflecting the modern trend of brides choosing softer, more romantic colors while still embracing the traditional, intricate embroidery.
The lehenga, gharara, sharara, saree, and anarkali are some of the most well-liked bridal dress styles; each has its own distinct elegance and symbolic significance. While the saree, with its classic drape, is adored throughout South India, the lehenga, with its exquisite embroidery and flowing silhouette, continues to be a favorite among brides from Pakistan and North India. The gharara and sharara, have gained popularity, particularly among Muslim brides.
With guest lists that frequently number between 300 and 500, and occasionally even thousands, Indian weddings are known for their lavish style. An Indian wedding in the United States is estimated to cost between $225,000 and $285,000 on average, which includes many days of rituals, ornate décor, traditional clothing, and a range of cultural customs. These weddings are seen as important occasions that honor the couple’s deep family ties, customs, and legacy. Each shaadi (wedding) I’ve attended since I was a child was a bright, lively event full of music, laughing, and the breathtaking sight of brides dressed in gorgeous clothes.
Dupattas, large rectangular pieces of cloth, have been an essential part of Indian and Pakistani attire for centuries. Its history traces back to ancient India. Traditionally, they were worn by women as a symbol of modesty and respect, often draped gracefully over the head and shoulders. A dupatta is usually around two meters long, resembling a shawl or scarf and designed to complement various traditional outfits. It can be styled in layered or fitted manners, depending on the occasion and outfit, which gives it versatility across different looks. They are crafted from diverse materials, including georgette, silk, and chiffon. In addition to their aesthetic appeal, dupattas are sometimes used as religious head coverings, such as in the Islamic faith, which adds a religious element to this cultural drape.
For brides, wearing bangles is a traditional practice that signifies joy, prosperity, and blessings for a harmonious married life. Bangles are known as chooriyan in Urdu and kangan in Hindi. Hanging from some of these bangles are matching jhumkas, characterized by their dome shape and delicate pearl tassels. In some regions, specific types of bangles are traditionally worn by married women, such as red and green glass bangles, which are believed to bring good fortune. Bangles are also seen as a symbol of fertility. The sound of bangles clinking is considered to yield positive energy, prosperity, and good fortune to the people wearing them.
However, in some cultures, it is considered inauspicious for a married woman’s bangles to break, as bangles are associated with her husband’s longevity and well-being. This notion often adds to the emotional value of bangles for married women. They also play a significant role during festivals like Diwali, Eid, and Karva Chauth since women adorn themselves with thick and colorful bangle sets.
The paranda hair ornaments bring back memories of my father carefully oiling my hair, braiding it tightly, and finishing it off with this vibrant piece. The scent of hair oil, the firm braid, and the colorful paranda swinging at the end—all of it together is a comforting reminder of home and tradition. Growing up, I loved how the tassels and designs moved with each step.
Juttis, pointed shoes with upturned toe, are typically handcrafted by skilled artisans, often passed down through generations in family-run workshops. They are usually made from leather (often camel, buffalo, or cowhide) and are decorated with detailed embroidery, beadwork, and sequins.
Each pair has a traditional look, with detailed, handcrafted designs that highlight the cultural significance of juttis in South Asian attire. Juttis are versatile and pair well with a variety of traditional outfits, including sherwanis, lehengas, salwar kameez, and kurta pajamas. Likewise, khusas are more common in Pakistan and have a slightly sharper, more pointed toe compared to juttis. Khusas are made without any left or right foot distinction, which means that both shoes in the pair look identical, which enables them to mold to the wearer’s feet over time.
A jewelry store showcases an extensive collection of traditional South Asian jewelry. The display includes elaborate necklace sets with matching earrings, shimmering bangles, and long gold and silver chains.
It includes colorful bangles, ornate necklace sets with multi-strand designs, tikka (forehead ornaments), and jhumkas (dangling earrings). The collection also includes gold and silver chains, brooches, and hair accessories.
Although the complete sets can be worn by anyone, it is primarily a selection made by the bride during the occasion of weddings. These sets are also sometimes gifted to the bride from either their own family or their in-laws during this season.
Gold jewelry is commonly purchased for weddings and festivals in South Asia. It is seen as a status symbol, with families passing down pieces as heirlooms. Many people in these regions also buy gold jewelry as an asset that can be easily liquidated during financial hardships. Due to this, there are countless jewelry shops, particularly in Pakistan all throughout Tariq Road and other areas.
These are traditional, embellished clutches and potli bags.
Traditional South Asian bridal accessories known as kaleeras are dangling ornaments traditionally worn by brides on their wrists as part of the wedding attire on their wedding day.
They are crafted with gold or silver elements, pearls, beads, and small charms like leaves and bells. A popular ritual associated with kaleeras occurs during the wedding ceremony, where the bride shakes her kaleeras over the heads of unmarried friends and female relatives. According to tradition, if a kaleera falls on someone, it’s believed they will be the next to get married.
Ornamental, embroidered trays that are frequently used in South Asian occasions, such as weddings, to distribute gifts. Each tray has been decorated with gold embroidery, lace, ruffles, and beautiful fabric in a variety of colors, including pink, red, gold, and silver. The framed Islamic calligraphy artwork behind the trays reflect religious and cultural decor and are frequently given as gifts or put on display in homes.
The items in the plastic wrap are colorful garlands, often made with pompoms, mirrors, and fabric, crafted in sophisticated patterns of pink, yellow, and white. These types of decorations are commonly used for pujas (Hindu prayer rituals) or as adornments for special occasions. They serve as both spiritual and festive symbols, which adds to the aesthetic of altars or spaces dedicated to celebration and devotion. Garlands as decor in stores and markets is prevalent during Diwali. Known as the Hindu festival of lights, Diwali is a time when homes, temples, and public spaces are adorned to welcome Goddess Lakshmi, the deity of wealth and prosperity, and to symbolize the victory of light over darkness. Garland decorations are often placed at doorways, around altars, and near images or statues of deities, especially Goddess Lakshmi, as their beauty, purity, and lively colors create a welcoming atmosphere for the goddess and her blessings. In particular, Marigold garlands are popular during Diwali because marigolds are believed to ward off negativity. The flower’s bright orange and yellow hues, associated with sun energy, symbolize vitality, power, and utter importance.
The owner of the shop, “Bollywood Designer Sets, Kundan, Polki, Jadao, Jarkan Etc.,” was welcoming and cordial. He was very warm-hearted and provided me a complete tour of his shop, and that shot was captured when he was so graciously showing me garlands in the spirit of Diwali.
This is the view of one part of that shop.
A lot of stores in Jackson Heights hosted an Annual Diwali Sale, and the discounted price for items like sarees, lehengas, kurta-pajama sets, and accessories reminds me of people bargaining in Pakistan and adjusting the provided cost to their desired price. In this case, the discount is 40%; however, in Pakistan, if a family or individual engaged in bargaining, they would at least receive a 50% or 60% discount. If you ever walk into a Pakistani market, you will certainly see bargaining transpiring, especially among the customers and Pashtun sellers. Desis are indeed the best bargainers!
This image displays colorful Diwali diyas (oil lamps) for sale, arranged on a green fabric-covered table.
The diyas come in various shapes, sizes, and colors. Many are hand-painted with intricate floral or geometric designs, typical of festive decor for Diwali. They are designed to hold small amounts of oil or wax, with a wick placed at the center to be lit during the festival. Traditionally, families light diyas around their homes, balconies, and doorways to invite prosperity and drive away negative energy.
The diyas appear in bright colors like red, blue, yellow, and green, which makes them both functional and visually appealing. They are a major component of Diwali.
The bindi, a small yet powerful mark worn on the forehead, holds a special place in my heart, connecting me to the cultural and spiritual heritage of Pakistan and India. Growing up, I saw Hindu women around me wearing it not just as an accessory but as a symbol of vitality, the “third eye,” and spiritual awareness. It’s more than just a dot; it carries meaning and grace, adding an elegant touch to their appearance, especially during religious events, festivals, and weddings. Conventionally speaking, the red bindi worn on the forehead symbolizes marital status, much like the sindoor (vermilion powder) applied in the hair parting, and is considered a sign of a woman’s married life and her husband’s well-being. Therefore, wearing a bindi feels like honoring tradition while incorporating a desi element to one’s overall look.
What really evokes memories of Pakistan and similar areas is the street cuisine. For example, this “Tasty Fuchka” cart serves fuchka, a popular street snack made with flavored water and a blast of spices. Fuchka is crunchy, acidic, and spicy. The atmosphere of busy vendors, the smells of freshly made food, and the satisfying simplicity of quick eats on the run all contribute to the unquestionable appeal of street food. I often grab lunch from a nearby halal cart, which gives me that same nostalgic feeling. It’s a little escape to those days in Pakistan, walking out onto the streets and grabbing a quick and the TASTIEST bite.
A steamed dumpling with roots in Tibetan and Nepali cuisine, momos are served from the busy truck in Jackson Heights. These little circular dumplings are usually filled with vegetables like spinach, cabbage, or potatoes, or with minced meat like lamb, hog, or chicken. A basic mixture of flour, water, and salt is used to make the dough, which is then shaped into little circles, filled with delicious savory filling, and sealed with a twist before being fried or steam-cooked. An additional depth of flavor is added by the assortment of spicy, spicy sauces and condiments that are offered with them. In Nepal, where they are revered as a staple food that has been consumed for many generations, momos have a lengthy history. Tibetan immigrants who settled in the Kathmandu Valley brought momos to Nepal, where they are said to have originated, but they have also become popular in Bangladesh, India, Bhutan, and other places. This picture is taken from the box of momos I purchased from a famous food truck called
“Momo and Steak Garden” in Jackson Heights, and they are a mix of chicken and lamb.
Mithai is essentially South Asian sweets. Made with common components like flour, milk, and sugar, these sweets are given surprising twists sometimes with added vegetables or lentils. The delicate infusion of rose water, saffron, and cardamom forms them. Every variety has a distinct taste and charm. For instance, the rasgullas and gulab jamuns absorb aromatic sugar syrups to become enticingly juicy, kheer and halwas are delightfully moist, and barfis are soft and crumbly. Sweets like gulab jamun were changed by the Mughals’ introduction of saffron, pistachios, and almonds, which also provided the creamy richness of kulfi and firni.
With origins in ancient South Asia, mithai has a distinguished past that spans thousands of years. These sweets, which are traditionally manufactured in temples and households, were first created as sacrifices for the gods and represent joy, dedication, and purity. Mithai is still a crucial part of South Asian identity today, and it is honored at milestones, marriages, and festivals. Just seeing these sweets brings back golden memories of enjoying mithai in Pakistan, savoring them after every good news is delivered, indulging in them during weddings, and sometimes even taking family trips to Ambala Bakery or Rehmat-e-Shereen for the best mithai in Pakistan.
As for desi restaurants in Jackson Heights, the most popular ones consist of Dera, Angel Indian Restaurant, Bombay Grill, and Kabbish. Other spots include a Nepalese restaurant and bar called Lakeside NYC (embellished with garlands), the famous Kabab King, Red Chilli Modern Indian Restaurant, and vegetarian Dosa Delights. Specifically, originating in South India, a dosa is a thin, crispy, crepe-like dish prepared from fermented rice and lentil batter. Usually stuffed with spiced mashed potatoes, it’s served with sambar, a vegetable stew made with lentils, and tasty chutneys.
Apna Bazaar is one of the most popular South Asian grocery stores in Jackson Heights. It offers a wide range of products, including fresh produce, spices, snacks, and traditional ingredients essential to Indian, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi cooking.
These shelves are stocked with South Asian spice and seasoning mixes or masalas, primarily from popular brands like Shan and MDH. These boxed mixes contain pre-blended spices for making traditional South Asian dishes such as haleem, korma, biryani, chicken handi, and nihari, and this makes it convenient for customers to prepare authentic meals at home.
Bags are labeled for specific types of rice, such as “Idly & Dosa Rice,” indicating they are suited for South Indian dishes like idly (steamed rice cakes) and dosa (rice crepes). Most people rely on rice or flour (for rotis) as their major source of food. Basmati rice, known for its long grain and aromatic qualities, is a staple in South Asian households and is widely used in dishes like biryani and pulao. Packs of instant noodles called Knorr’s Chatt Patta and Knorr’s Chicken noodles (special Pakistani noodles) can be eaten for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
In Jackson Heights, immigrants find pieces of their heritage preserved and it reinforces the idea that no matter where life takes you, home can be wherever you find connection, comfort, relatability, and shared history.
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