By Luis Fonseca
In early March, the world was shutting down, business and schools were ordered to close, the sports world came to an immediate halt, the curtain came crashing down on entertainment. We did not know where and how we would get our food. People quickly scurried to stockpile supplies and went into hiding, a kind of hibernation mode. There were shortages of items like eggs in city markets as people hoarded supplies.
While city shops ran low, another source appeared with the spring: farmers markets. GrowNYC is a Greenmarket program that promotes regional agriculture and ensures a supply of fresh local produce for New Yorkers. It also organizes more than 50 Greenmarkets like the Inwood Farmer’s Market.
“When Governor Cuomo announced that farmers markets are considered essential businesses, we immediately took a two-day pause to map out safety protocols for all of GrowNYC’s food access sites,” says Catherine Crawford of GrowNYC. “Our mission to provide access to fresh, healthy food to all New Yorkers, while supporting regional agriculture, is more important now than ever.” Procedures were put in place, says Crawford, so that produce would not be handled by people. Sampling of food was no longer allowed, booths were placed further apart, gloves and sanitizers were made available.
GrowNYC’s Social Distance manager, Pamela Davis, shows one of the most important tools against Covid-19, a piece of chalk, which she uses to mark social distancing the lines on the ground at the Inwood Farmers Market.
Victoria Gorski is a regular customer at the market. “I have been impressed by the work of the organization (GrowNYC), the farmers, the patrons all adapting to make it work, all, with good spirits,” she says. “Except the infrequent ‘You’re are cutting in the line’. Maintaining a routine has been important for my sanity and going to the market is part of the routine. It has been heartening to continue to experience a sense of community that going to the market provides. Seeing familiar faces even behind the masks is comforting.”
One face behind the masks, is Sebastian Hartnett’s, a life-long city resident. The go-between farmer and city-folk, Hartnett has worked for the HVF for about three years. He has been at the market throughout the epidemic. Early on in March he recalls it was kind of hectic. Most all of the vendors wore gloves to not touch the food. But there were very few customers. Then, as more detailed guidelines and social distancing rules were put into effect, the customers started to come and to come in numbers. He says enjoys his work, his team at the stand and at the farm, as well as his customers. Is he concerned about the dangerous and unknown circumstances? “I need to go to work and help the people that need to get their supplies,” he said.
Hartnett has been concerned about his health and safety, along with of elderly his parents. He worries more when he returns from work. “Sometimes I would stay out until later on so that, when I would get home, my parents would already be their room asleep so that I could just throw my clothes into the wash directly, stay in my room, so there is no cause for the infection.”
The second week in April, social distancing had been implemented in the Inwood market. “Everyone is in compliance,” said GrowNYC’s Michael Hurwitz. “There are reminders, customers are reminding one another, farmers are reminding one another. This does require additional staff, and we have extra staff on the ground, constantly going through, reminding people where to stand. I never knew how important chalk would be.”
The weekend of April 18 was a miserable cold, rainy day. A lot of the chalk lines were faint. The market seemed to thrive through the rest of April and May. “There are so many factors influencing attendance at Greenmarkets of late,” said Crawford. “Nice weather, more products at market, and the fact that more people are eligible for SNAP at the moment — and may be coming to the Greenmarkets for the 40 percent increase in buying power through ‘Health Bucks.’”
Precautions were certainly on Aaron Adelheit’s mind. He worked at the market for close to two years, recently for Seatuck, a fish seller. He works in public accounting during the week and says the weekends at the market offer him a chance to socialize more. “A lot of people were thanking us and expressing their gratitude for our continuing to come out to the market,” he said. However, his family was concerned about exposure at the market and he reluctantly quit as the curve was reaching its peak. “I miss working at the market, I am sad that I am not able to do it,” he said, adding he hopes he will be able to return soon.
As the curve flattens, the air of anxiety is lifting a bit around vendors’ tents. Faces masks, shields, ribbons, barriers, signs, chalk lines, and everybody going about the business of selling and buying. Anita Bellotti, a scented candle artist is usually at the south-west corner of the market. “We give hope with not showing fear of the virus but by showing strength and courage to go outside and doing what we love,” says Bellotti. “I feel as if I have given some joy to see light shining from the painted glass. They still tell me, ‘Thank you, for making such a great candle.’”
Mask makers also stepped up as face coverings became de rigueur. The masks went from bulky, quickly stitched, to more finished and color coordinated, functional and aesthetic. There is no way that the NYC strut and swagger was going to be left on the back burner.
Heather Gibbons works for the biodynamic Hawthorne Valley Farm (HVF) located in Columbia County, New York. “To date we have seen a huge increase in demand for our products on the farm in CSA sales, at the greenmarkets, in our farm store and through our distributors for our yogurt and ferments sales,” says Gibbons. “On the positive side, interest in, and demand for, healthy foods is at an all-time high; as is interest in regenerative farming. People want to buy food that is healthy and grown and raised ethically. And this moment in time has been marked by an appreciation for farmers and food service workers in a way we’ve not seen before.” Hawthorne Valley Farm is adding acreage into production. It is making sure staff is wearing masks and face shields, heightening disinfecting practices, bagging items that had previously been self-serve, and creating whole new systems for curbside pick-up, pre-ordering, and delivery.
On May 11, GrowNYC announced on social media that it would soon break ground on a New York State Greenmarket Regional Food Hub in the South Bronx. The hub will be a local food distribution center that will quadruple its ability to benefit local communities and farmers.
For more about GrowNYC, its site is: www.GrowNYC.org. You can also find it on social media starting with GrowNYC and GrowNYC_Manhattan. There are educational programs as well. You can visit their Distance Learning site at www.grownycdistancelearning.org.
Currently there are two farmstands in the Bronx. One is at Gun Hill Road and Dekalb Ave and the other at 149 St. between Park and Morris. Call to confirm dates and times of operation. For a full list of vendors participating in the variety of GrowNYC food programs, visit www.GrowNYC.org
Other city-wide food serving organizations
New York City Dept of Education Free Meals
Map to help find locations of meals being distributed for free in NYC
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