Story and photos by Kimberly Bedoya
The San Gennaro feast, which is loved by some and despised by others, has undergone a subtle transformation from its origins as the celebration of the patron saint of Naples, Italy.
Little Italy in downtown Manhattan has been home to the San Gennaro Feast for 87 years. This year’s event ran from September 12 to September 22 down Mulberry Street from Canal to Houston.
Neighborhood restaurants hawked pizza, sausages, deep-fried oreos, zeppoles, torrone, cannolis and mozzarepas along the route.
Little Italy was the first home in America for Italians who came with hopes of a better life in early 20th century. Today the neighborhood has changed but many Italian-Americans and others, return each year for the food, music, religious processions, and eating contests.
Local restaurants take the opportunity to flaunt their signature dishes. Vincent’s Restaurant, Lunella, Rubirosa, SegaFredo, Torrisi, Byggyz all had stands.
Frankie Avenzino, the chef behind the pepper sausages at Segafredo, created a slider of sausages submerged in spicy peppers in a tuna-infused sauce. Accompanied by roasted tomatoes and goat cheese on Italian bread, this simple but enticing dish seemed to be a fesitval favorite, with many waiting on line for a taste. Across the street at Torrisi’s, a neighborhood pizzeria, Jeffrey Leonards and Joseph Fedora served up pitas topped with molten cheddar and spinach-dipped chicken meatballs on a potato pancake ($10).
Yet sweets trumped savory at the feast.
On top of the gelatos, cannolis, and deep fried oreos, there was the mouth-tingling peppermint ice-cream ($3), the “bomboloni,” a doughnut filled with sweet-corn cream dusted with kettle corn and the Cannoli Kronie, covered with cream and topped with oranges and pistachios.
Torrone nougat, a seasonal favorite in Italy, was sold in blocks.
Alcohol consumption along the festival was permitted by the NYPD. Many vendors offered pina coladas served in coconut shells.
Although it is said that Little Italy has lost its taste, some participants clearly still keep the faith.
Carnival games offered entertainment for the kids.
While clearly other cultural influences have entered the festival, the Italian spirit, foods, traditions and heritage are still evident and Cannoli is still king.
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